Things to Do in Rize: Ayder, the Firtina Valley and the Highlands

Rize: the green, rainy tea country of the eastern Black Sea

Rize sits in Turkey's far northeast, squeezed between the Black Sea coast and a wall of steep mountains. The coastal strip is narrow, and behind it the slopes rise one after another. Most of those slopes are planted with tea, and what is left is forest and cloud. It rains here for much of the year, the sky is often grey, and the tops of the mountains are frequently wrapped in mist.

That is exactly what makes Rize interesting. It is not a dry, sunny resort but a wet, green mountain country. Along the Firtina valley there is a rushing river, old stone bridges, a medieval castle on a rocky spur, and high pastures with wooden houses. Places like Ayder fill up in summer, but climb a little higher and the quiet and the views come back.

The most common mistake is arriving with beach expectations. Rize's appeal is not sand but green mountains, hot springs, pasture houses, and tea. Accept the rain as part of the scenery rather than a problem and you are in the right frame of mind. The 12 places below follow the numbers on the map: first the Camlihemsin and Firtina valley side, then the Ikizdere direction, then the coast.

Quick answer

Rize is the place for green mountain scenery and cool, rainy air, built around its tea gardens, Ayder, the high pastures of the Firtina valley, the Kackar mountains, and the Ikizdere highlands.

• Rain is likely year round, so bring waterproof clothing and shoes.
• A car or a local transfer is close to essential for the valleys and pastures, since the roads are narrow and winding.
• The pastures are best in summer, once the snow has melted and the roads are open; verify current conditions before you set out.

1. The Ayder plateau

Ayder is Rize's best known highland and the starting point for most visits. It sits in a hollow above Camlihemsin, ringed by green slopes. With its wooden houses, hotels, small restaurants, and well known hot spring, it has grown into a genuine mountain resort, and in summer, especially on weekends, it gets busy.

The hot spring is a good way to warm up after a long walk or a wet day. Check the entry conditions and hours on site; the men's and women's sections are separate. There is also a cable car line near Ayder that gives a scenic ride up the slopes, but whether it runs can depend on the weather, so ask ahead.

Treat Ayder as a gateway rather than a destination. The Gelin Tulu waterfall is within walking distance, and the roads up to Pokut, Sal, and the higher grazing grounds start here. For quiet, stay the night and head up early in the morning.

2. The Gelin Tulu waterfall

Gelin Tulu is the waterfall that spills down the slope just above Ayder. The name means bridal veil, and it fits: the water comes off a high rock face in a thin, spread out sheet of white against the dark green of the forest. Since you can reach it on foot from the centre of Ayder, it is the easiest outing on the plateau.

The flow is strongest in late spring and early summer, while the snow is melting. By late summer it thins out, though the scene is still worth the walk. After rain the path can be wet and slippery, so wear shoes with grip and stay off the rocks.

Go early in the morning if you want it to yourself; most of the day trippers who come to Ayder around midday stop here too. If mist rolls in the falls can vanish from view, so keep your plan flexible and take your chance when the weather clears.

3. The Firtina valley and the stone bridges

The Firtina valley, running up from around Camlihemsin, is Rize's most beautiful. The river that names it runs fast and loud between the rocks, with steep, wooded slopes on either side. The road follows the water, so the river stays beside you even as you drive.

The valley's most memorable detail is its old stone bridges. These arched, humpbacked crossings from the Ottoman period clear the stream in a single span of stone and are still in place today. Several are easy to spot from the roadside and worth a stop for a photo. After rain the river runs stronger still.

The further up you go, the narrower and higher the road becomes. Camlihemsin is the last practical point to fill up on fuel, eat something, and take a break before heading in. Services thin out beyond it, so get yourself ready before you climb.

4. The Senyuva (Cinciva) bridge

The Senyuva bridge, known locally as Cinciva, is the most elegant of the stone crossings over the Firtina river. You pass it beside the road on the way from Camlihemsin towards Zilkale. It clears the river in a single high arch of stone; sources generally date its construction to the late 17th century. Its slim curve above the foaming water is one of the most photographed views in the valley.

You can walk across it, but the stones turn slippery in the rain and there is no railing, so take care. Around the bridge there are a few small guesthouses and places for a coffee stop; ask on site about hours and whether they open outside the main season.

Plan it not as a separate trip but as a natural stop on the drive to Zilkale and the upper valley. Early morning, before the road fills, the light is better too. Park so that you do not block the road, since the pull-offs here are tight.

5. Zilkale

Zilkale is a medieval castle perched on a rocky spur inside the Firtina valley. Its position, commanding the gorge below and the slopes opposite, makes it the most striking structure in the valley. The stone walls cut sharply against the green of the forest, and on a misty day the castle appears and disappears among the clouds.

Exactly when and by whom it was built is not known for certain, but it is thought to have guarded the valley and the old routes through it. If you want to go inside, verify beforehand whether it is open, what the entry conditions are, and the current state of the road. Beyond Camlihemsin the road narrows and winds, so drive slowly in wet weather.

Some of the best views come not from the castle itself but from the road as you approach. When the mist lifts, the view can open and close within moments, so take your time and stop whenever the weather allows. Pairing Zilkale with the Senyuva bridge in a single day is the most practical plan.

6. The Pokut and Sal pastures

Pokut and Sal are the high pastures above the Firtina valley, and they offer Rize's best known highland scenery. Wooden pasture houses line the green ridges, with distant peaks and a sea of cloud behind them on a clear day. The view is at its finest early in the morning, when mist fills the valley and the hilltops stand out like small islands.

Getting up there is not always easy. The roads can be rough, stony, and steep, and they turn muddy after rain. A high clearance vehicle helps if you drive yourself; many visitors book a local transfer from Camlihemsin or Ayder instead. Verify conditions and options before setting out.

If you want to stay, some pasture houses offer accommodation, but conditions are simple and the nights can be cold even in summer. Warm layers and a raincoat are essential. Catch a clear day and the view repays the effort many times over; in cloud, be aware you may see only a few metres ahead.

7. The Kackar Mountains national park

The Kackar mountains rise behind Rize and hold the region's highest peaks; the national park covers their glacial lakes, high valleys, and trekking routes. For serious hikers it is one of the best areas in Turkey, but shorter walks to the lake basins are possible too.

The glacial lakes and high passes are at their clearest in late summer; from late July into September the snow has mostly gone and the trails are open. Come earlier and you may meet snow and meltwater on the upper sections. The weather turns fast up here, and a morning that starts clear can end in mist and rain by mid afternoon.

Do not attempt the long routes without a guide, and even on short walks carry a warm layer, a rain shell, water, and food. The trailheads are mostly reached over pasture roads, which means a vehicle or a transfer. Verify the route, the season, and the state of the road before you go.

8. Lake Ovit and the Ikizdere highlands

Rize's Ikizdere district is a separate, much less touristed highland area away from the Camlihemsin side. The road climbing from Ikizdere towards the Ovit pass rises through meadows and streams; up top are Lake Ovit, the small glacial lakes around it, and wide open grazing grounds. The scenery is more open and bare than the Firtina side, with forest giving way to high meadow.

This side suits anyone who wants to stay clear of the crowds. Along the way you pass small pastures, trout restaurants by the streams, and spring fountains worth a stop. Short walks are possible around the lake; the ground is boggy in places, so pick your footing.

The upper section holds snow for much of the year and the road can close with the season; verify that it is open before you go. Midsummer is the safest window. Stock up on fuel and food in Ikizdere itself, since there is very little service higher up.

9. Central Rize and the tea gardens

Rize's town centre sits on the coast, on a narrow strip between the sea and the mountains. It is not a major sightseeing stop in itself, but it is the best place to see how tea is grown and drunk. The slopes behind the town are covered top to bottom in tea gardens, and those gardens sit at the core of Rize's identity.

Sitting at one of the viewpoints on the slope above town, among the tea, with a glass in hand and the coast below is the most direct experience here. The tea is brewed strong, served in narrow waisted glasses, and drunk all day. In season you may see pickers working the rows by hand.

The centre also has a small tea museum and display areas, plus the old castle grounds on the hill; ask on site about opening hours. Central Rize is a calm half day, either before you head up to the valleys or after you come back down.

10. The Rize shore park

The Rize shore park runs along the reclaimed waterfront in front of the town centre, a stretch of walking paths, benches, playgrounds, and tea spots where locals come for an evening stroll. The sea here is for looking at rather than swimming in: waves, gulls, and ships passing on the horizon.

Between days in the valleys, it is a good break to walk on flat ground, get some sea air, and use the town the way its residents do. In the late afternoon, if the sky is clear, the light towards the west turns fine. Even on a rainy day a short walk works, as long as you allow for the wind.

The park is within walking distance of the centre, and there is parking nearby if you drive. No special plan is needed; combine it with a tea garden visit in town, and an hour or two is enough.

11. Kemeralti beach (Cayeli)

Expecting a beach holiday in Rize would be a mistake, but if you want a short Black Sea swim in summer, the best known spot is Kemeralti beach on the Cayeli side, east of the centre along the coast road. It is a strip of mixed sand and pebble with slopes rising behind it; the setting looks like a green mountain shore, nothing like the Aegean or Mediterranean.

The swimming season is short, generally limited to July and August, and even then the water can be cool. Currents and sudden drops in depth are real risks on the Black Sea: check for a lifeguard and warning flags, stay out when the sea is rough, and swim parallel to the shore.

Simple snack stands and seating open in summer, and conditions vary with the season. Come as a stop on the coast road rather than the centre of your day; swim if the weather suits, otherwise have a tea and move on.

12. The Anzer plateau

Anzer is a highland settlement above Ikizdere, at roughly 2,300 metres, and the source of Turkey's most famous honey. Anzer honey is a rare, expensive product gathered from the plateau's flowering meadows; if you buy, the best approach is on the plateau, from a producer, in season. Prices are high and imitations are common, so pay attention to the label and the seller.

The plateau itself is worth the trip: broad meadows, streams, stone and timber pasture houses, and short walks in the surroundings. The altitude keeps the air cool and the weather changes fast, so bring a warm layer even in summer.

The road up from Ikizdere is narrow and rough in places and can be closed in winter and spring; verify conditions before you go. July and August are the best window, when the flowers are out and the honey season begins. Accommodation is limited, and most visitors come for the day.

When to go

The best window for the pastures runs from late spring to early autumn. The snow melts in these months, the high roads open, and the grazing grounds are at their greenest. July and August are the liveliest but also the busiest, especially at Ayder. For the Kackar lakes and high points like Ovit, late summer is the most reliable period.

Be ready for rain in every season. Rize is the wettest region in Turkey, and even in summer you should expect rain every few days. That is also why everything is so green. A waterproof jacket, good shoes, and a spare set of dry clothes in the car make things easier.

In winter the coast stays mild, but the high roads close with snow and the pastures become unreachable. If you are coming to see the mountains, do not choose winter. Mist can hide the views in any season, so a flexible plan spread over a few days improves your odds of catching a clear one.

Getting there

The easiest way is to fly. Rize-Artvin Airport sits close to the coast and is easy to reach from the town centre. Alternatively, land at Trabzon Airport and drive east along the Black Sea coast; the run to central Rize takes around an hour, depending on traffic.

After the airport you will need a vehicle for the valleys and pastures. A rental car gives the most flexibility, but the mountain roads are narrow, steep, and winding, and they turn slippery in the rain. For Pokut, Sal, and some of the higher pastures an ordinary car may not be enough; local transfers from around Camlihemsin and Ayder are the more comfortable option for those points.

Public transport runs along the coast and to the district centres, but regular service to the high pastures is scarce or nonexistent. If you plan to go up, arrange transport in advance. Fill up on fuel at the last towns before the climbs, Camlihemsin or Ikizdere, since stations are sparse further in.

What to eat

Black Sea cooking is simple, filling, and heavy on butter and cornmeal. The best known dish is muhlama, in some places called kuymak, a hot, stretchy mix of melted cheese and corn flour. It is rich, but on a cold, rainy day it fits perfectly.

On the coast, hamsi, the Black Sea anchovy, takes the lead. In season it comes pan fried, steamed, or coated in cornmeal. Alongside it you will find black cabbage dishes, corn bread, trout at the streamside restaurants, and hazelnut desserts. Portions are usually generous.

And of course, tea: Rize tea is brewed strong, drunk from a narrow waisted glass, and turns up beside every conversation. The best gift to take home is Anzer honey; the real thing is expensive, so buy from a producer on the Ikizdere side if you can, and be suspicious of any price that looks too low.

Frequently asked questions

What is Rize known for?

Rize is known first of all for its tea: much of the tea drunk in Turkey grows on these rainy slopes. Beyond that, it is known for the Ayder plateau, the Firtina valley and its stone bridges, Zilkale, the high pastures of Pokut and Sal, the Kackar mountains, and Anzer honey.

How many days do I need?

Three or four days cover the main places well: one day for Ayder and Gelin Tulu, one for the Firtina valley, Senyuva, and Zilkale, one for Pokut and Sal or the Kackar side, and half a day for the centre and the coast. Add another day for Ikizdere and Anzer. Leave slack in the plan for misty days.

Do I need a car?

For the valleys and pastures, yes, you need a car or a transfer. Public transport runs along the coast but there is no regular service up high. For rough-road spots like Pokut and Sal, a local transfer is often more comfortable than your own vehicle.

Can you swim in Rize?

You can, but only in a short season: July and August, with Kemeralti beach at Cayeli the best known spot. Currents are a serious risk on the Black Sea, so check the flags and the lifeguard situation and stay out in rough weather. The real reason to come to Rize is the mountains and pastures, not the sea.

Does it rain a lot?

Yes, Rize is the wettest place in Turkey, and rain is likely year round. That is also why everything is so green. Build the rain into your plan: bring waterproofs, keep the pasture days flexible, and when you catch a clear morning, set out early.